Tomato leaves curling is one of the most alarming-looking tomato problems, but in UK gardens it is usually one of the least serious. The great majority of leaf curl is physiological, meaning it is the plant reacting to its conditions rather than any disease, most often to swings in temperature, too much or too little water, wind, or hard pruning combined with heavy feeding. This kind of curl typically starts on the lower, older leaves, which cup or roll inwards and feel slightly leathery while staying green, and it usually rights itself once conditions settle, without affecting your crop. The much rarer and more serious causes are weedkiller drift and virus, which look different and need a different response. So the first job is not to panic, but to look closely and work out which kind of curl you are actually seeing, because the common one is nothing to worry about.

I have grown tomatoes for over twenty years on my Oxfordshire plot, and my greenhouse plants curl their lower leaves almost every year when we get a run of cold nights after warm days. The first time it happened I was convinced I had some dreadful disease, and I nearly pulled the plants. In fact they cropped perfectly well. Let me walk you through the causes, how to tell them apart, and what, if anything, you actually need to do.

First, Look Closely at the Curl

Diagnosing tomato leaves curling is all about detective work, and a few quick observations tell you most of what you need to know. Ask yourself: which leaves are affected, the old lower ones or the new top growth? Which way do they curl, upward and inward, or downward and twisted? And is anything else wrong, like distorted new shoots, odd colours, or malformed fruit? The answers point straight at the cause, because the harmless physiological curl and the serious causes affect different leaves in different ways.

As a rule of thumb, curl that starts on the lower, older leaves and leaves the plant otherwise healthy is almost always the harmless physiological kind. Curl or distortion on the new top growth, especially with twisting or strange fruit, is the warning sign that points to weedkiller or virus. Keep those two patterns in mind as you read the causes below, since telling them apart is the whole game. It fits the same diagnostic approach as the wider common tomato problems guide.

Cause 1: Temperature Swings (Most Common)

By far the most common cause of tomato leaf curl in the UK is fluctuating temperature, particularly warm days followed by cold nights. The plant cannot process the sugars it made during the day when the night turns too cold, and the leaves curl in response. This is exactly why it shows up so often in home greenhouses and polytunnels, which heat up dramatically by day and cool sharply at night, far more than a large commercial glasshouse would. It is the classic early-summer greenhouse tomato complaint.

The good news, and I cannot stress this enough, is that this kind of curl is harmless. The leaves stay green, the plant grows and crops normally, and it usually sorts itself out as the nights warm up in high summer. There is nothing you need to do beyond ventilating the greenhouse well to even out the temperature swings. The RHS advice on tomato leaf problems confirms this temperature-driven curl does not seem to cause any real loss of crop, so do not let it worry you.

Cause 2: Watering and Stress

The next most common cause is water stress, and it works both ways. Too little water makes leaves curl to reduce their surface area and save moisture, a sensible survival response, while too much water and soggy roots can also trigger curling, since tomatoes hate sitting wet. Other stresses do the same thing: strong wind on unsupported plants, root disturbance from hoeing too close, transplant shock, and severe pruning, especially when combined with heavy nitrogen feeding, can all make leaves roll.

The fix here is simply to steady the conditions. Water consistently and evenly so the plant is neither parched nor waterlogged, as in how often to water, support and shelter plants from wind, avoid disturbing the roots, and do not go mad removing side shoots and leaves all at once. Ease off high-nitrogen feed too, feeding sensibly as in feeding vegetables properly. Remove side shoots gradually, as covered in removing side shoots, rather than stripping the plant in one go.

Cause 3: Weedkiller Damage

This is where curl stops being harmless, so it is worth knowing the signs. Tomatoes are extremely sensitive to weedkiller, particularly hormone types like those used on lawns, and even a tiny amount of drift or contamination can distort them badly. The tell-tale signs are different from physiological curl: the leaves twist and curl, often downward, the new growth becomes narrow, fern-like, and distorted, stems may thicken or split, and any fruit that forms can be malformed. Crucially, weedkiller damage hits the new growth, not just the old lower leaves.

The contamination can arrive in surprising ways: spray drifting from a neighbour treating their lawn on a breezy day, or, notoriously, through manure or compost made from grass or hay treated with persistent weedkillers. If you suspect weedkiller, there is no cure, but plants with mild exposure sometimes grow out of it, so keep them watered and wait. Do not eat fruit from badly affected plants. And be careful about the manure and compost you bring in, a real risk covered in feeding the soil.

Cause 4: Virus (Uncommon in the UK)

Viruses can cause leaf curl too, but they are genuinely uncommon in UK gardens, so this should be low on your list of suspects, not high. Where they do occur, the signs go well beyond simple curling: mottled or mosaic patterning on the leaves, yellowing, purple tints in the veins, badly stunted growth, and poor or distorted fruit. Tomato yellow leaf curl virus, spread by whitefly, causes cupped, pale new leaves and stunting, but it is far more a problem of hot climates than a typical British garden.

If you genuinely suspect virus, which again is unlikely here, there is no treatment, and affected plants should be removed and destroyed to protect others, not composted. But do not jump to this conclusion, because the overwhelming majority of curl you will see in a UK garden is the harmless physiological kind, not virus. Keeping whitefly under control helps as a precaution, and good all-round plant health, as in tomato diseases, makes plants more resilient.

How to Tell Them Apart

Pulling it together, here is the quick diagnostic. If the curl is on the lower, older leaves, they stay green and leathery, and the plant is otherwise healthy and growing well, it is physiological, harmless, and needs no action beyond steadying conditions. If the new top growth is twisted, narrow, and distorted, suspect weedkiller. And if you see mottling, yellowing, purple veins, and stunting alongside the curl, only then consider virus. Nine times out of ten in a UK garden, it is the first, reassuring answer.

This is why looking closely matters so much before you act. Pulling up a perfectly healthy plant that was only reacting to cold nights would be a real shame, and it is a mistake I nearly made myself. Take a breath, check which leaves and which direction, and let the plant tell you what is going on. It is the same calm, observant approach that solves most issues in why vegetables fail.

Curling With Other Symptoms

Sometimes leaf curl comes alongside other problems, and the combination helps you diagnose. Curling with yellowing lower leaves is often just age or a feeding issue rather than anything sinister, and is covered in why tomato leaves turn yellow. Curling in a plant that is also failing to set fruit points to general stress and conditions, as in tomatoes not producing fruit. And curling with splitting fruit after erratic watering is the same watering story showing up twice, covered in why tomatoes split.

Reading the whole plant rather than one symptom in isolation is the key to getting it right. A single curled lower leaf on an otherwise thriving plant means nothing; curl plus distorted new growth plus odd fruit means something. Learning to see the pattern is what turns worried guessing into confident diagnosis, and it ties into the wider common growing problems that all reward the same close look.

Preventing Leaf Curl

Since most tomato leaves curling is a stress response, prevention is really just good tomato growing. Ventilate greenhouses well to even out the day-to-night temperature swings that cause the commonest curl. Water consistently so plants are never parched or waterlogged, support them against wind, and feed sensibly rather than forcing soft growth with too much nitrogen. Prune and remove side shoots gradually rather than all at once. Do these and the physiological curl largely disappears, or at least stops worrying you when it briefly appears.

For the serious causes, prevention means vigilance: be very careful about weedkiller near your plants and about the manure and compost you bring in, and keep whitefly down as a virus precaution. Healthy, unstressed plants in good soil, as in growing tomatoes, shrug off far more than stressed ones. Good growing is the best prevention there is, and it is all part of caring for tomato plants through the season.

When Not to Worry

I will end where I began, because it is the most important point: most tomato leaf curl is nothing to worry about. If your plant is growing well, the curl is on the lower leaves, and everything else looks healthy, you almost certainly have harmless physiological curl that will pass on its own. Resist the urge to reach for a spray or to pull the plant, because there is genuinely nothing to treat and the crop will be fine.

Save your concern for the specific warning signs, distorted new growth, twisting, strange fruit, mottling, which point to the rare serious causes. Everything else is just a tomato being a tomato in a British summer of warm days and chilly nights. Learn to tell the difference and you will save yourself a great deal of needless worry, and grow better tomatoes for the calm, as the fuller how to grow tomatoes guide sets out from the start.

Tomato Leaves Curling: Frequently Asked Questions

A Sensible Place to Start

If your tomato leaves are curling, take a close look before you do anything. If the curl is on the lower, older leaves, they are still green, and the plant is otherwise healthy and growing well, you almost certainly have the harmless physiological kind. Steady the conditions, ventilate the greenhouse, water consistently, and it will pass on its own with no effect on your crop.

Only worry if the new top growth is twisted and distorted, which points to weedkiller, or if you see mottling and stunting, which can mean virus. Both are uncommon in UK gardens. For the everyday curl that most of us see, the best thing you can do is nothing but grow the plant well. Do not let it worry you, and do not pull a perfectly good plant.

Why are my tomatoes splitting? Tomatoes split when they take up water faster than their skins can stretch, and in UK gardens the usual trigger is a spell of dry weather followed by heavy rain or a big watering. The fruit swells suddenly on the inside, the skin cannot keep up, and it cracks. It looks alarming, but split tomatoes are not diseased, not dangerous, and almost always caused by inconsistent watering rather than anything wrong with the plant. You can still eat them, and once you understand what causes the splitting you can largely prevent it. The fix, as with so many tomato problems, comes down to steady, even watering rather than the feast-and-famine that our weather so often delivers.

I have grown tomatoes for over twenty years on my Oxfordshire clay, in the greenhouse and outdoors, and splitting used to frustrate me every summer, especially after a dry fortnight broke into a downpour and half my ripening fruit cracked overnight. Once I understood it was a watering and weather problem rather than a disease, I stopped worrying and started managing it, and it became far less of an issue. Let me explain exactly why tomatoes split, the two different kinds of splitting you will see, and how to stop it happening.

Why Tomatoes Split

The cause is beautifully simple once you picture it. A tomato has a skin that can only stretch so fast. When the plant suddenly takes up a lot of water, after rain or a heavy watering following a dry spell, the flesh inside swells quickly, the skin cannot expand to match, and it splits. It is purely a matter of the inside growing faster than the outside can accommodate. That is why splitting so often appears the morning after rain breaks a dry period, and why it clusters on the fruit closest to ripening, whose skins are least elastic.

So splitting is not an infection, a pest, or a nutrient problem. It is a physical response to a sudden change in water uptake, which means the answer lies entirely in how evenly the plant is watered and how sheltered it is from sudden downpours. This puts it in the same family as blossom end rot, another watering-related disorder, and it is worth reading the two together since the prevention overlaps so much.

The Two Types of Splitting

There are two patterns of splitting, and it helps to know which you are seeing, though the cause and cure are much the same. The first is radial splitting, where the cracks run down the sides of the fruit from the stalk towards the base, like the segments of an orange. This is the more common type and usually follows a sharp change in watering. The second is concentric splitting, where the cracks form rings around the shoulders of the tomato near the stalk, often finer and more circular.

Radial cracks tend to result from a sudden big drink after drought, while concentric ring-cracks are more often linked to fluctuating conditions over a longer period, and some varieties are simply more prone to them. Either way, both come back to uneven water and, sometimes, big temperature swings. Knowing the type is mostly reassurance that you are looking at splitting and not a disease, which is covered in tomato diseases and the wider common tomato problems guide.

It Is Not a Disease

This is worth stating plainly, because a cracked tomato can look unpleasant and set off worries about blight or rot. Splitting itself is not a disease. It is a physical crack caused by water, and the fruit underneath is perfectly sound at the moment it splits. There is no fungus or bacteria involved in the splitting, and it does not spread from fruit to fruit or plant to plant the way an actual disease would. The RHS advice on tomato splitting confirms it is a physiological disorder, so sprays are no help.

The one caveat is what happens next. An open split is a wound, and if you leave a cracked tomato on the plant in damp weather, that broken skin can let in moulds and rots or attract fruit flies. So the split is not the disease, but it can become a doorway for one if ignored. That is why the practical advice is to pick split fruit promptly, which I come to below. For genuine disease worries, tomato blight is the one to rule out.

How to Stop Tomatoes Splitting

Prevention is almost entirely about consistent watering, so this is where to focus. Water regularly and evenly so the plant never dries out and then gets flooded, which for containers in warm weather usually means a good drink every day, sometimes twice in a heatwave. The aim is to keep the soil steadily moist rather than letting it swing between bone dry and soaking, because it is the swing, not the amount, that splits the fruit. Getting into a daily rhythm rather than watering only when you remember makes the single biggest difference.

Mulching around the base of your plants helps enormously, because it holds moisture in the soil and evens out the ups and downs. Improving the soil so it retains water more steadily helps too, which is another reason to keep improving your garden soil and to think about how often to water. For outdoor tomatoes, a bit of shelter from heavy rain, growing against a wall or under a lean-to, reduces the sudden soakings that cause the worst splitting.

Why Greenhouse Tomatoes Split Too

You might expect a greenhouse to prevent splitting, since it keeps the rain off, and it does help with the downpour problem. But greenhouse tomatoes split for a different reason: heat. On a hot day a greenhouse can soar, the plants transpire hard and dry out fast, and then when you water in the evening they take up a big drink all at once, which splits the fruit just as rain would outdoors. The enclosed heat actually makes consistent watering more important, not less.

So under glass the answers are good ventilation to stop the extreme heat, shading in the hottest spells, and steady watering rather than one big evening soak after a dry, baking day. Damping down the greenhouse floor helps keep the air and roots more even too. It is all part of the same care routine covered in caring for tomato plants and growing tomatoes generally.

Can You Eat Split Tomatoes?

Yes, and this is the reassuring part. A tomato that has just split is perfectly good to eat, since the crack is only skin-deep and the flesh is sound. The sensible approach is to pick split fruit as soon as you spot it, before the open wound has a chance to attract mould or fruit flies, and use it promptly. A freshly split tomato is exactly as good in the kitchen as a whole one, so there is no waste involved in catching them early.

The only ones to discard are those you missed, where the split has been sitting open in damp weather and has started to rot or grow mould. Those go on the compost heap. But caught promptly, split tomatoes are a minor cosmetic problem rather than a loss, and if a glut of them splits after rain, they are ideal for cooking down into sauces and soups. If some are still green when they split, you can also ripen them indoors.

Some Varieties Split More Than Others

It is worth knowing that variety plays a real part. Thin-skinned varieties and many cherry tomatoes are more prone to splitting than thicker-skinned types, simply because their skins are less able to stretch. Some heritage and beefsteak varieties also crack readily. If you grow a variety that splits badly every year despite your best watering, the variety itself may be part of the problem, and it is not necessarily anything you are doing wrong.

If splitting is a perennial frustration, it is worth trying a variety described as crack-resistant next season, alongside your usual steady watering. Many modern varieties are bred to resist splitting well. Choosing the right variety from the start, as touched on in how to grow tomatoes, saves a lot of bother, though good watering still matters whatever you grow.

Splitting, Blossom End Rot, and Watering

If you take a step back, you will notice that the big three tomato fruit problems all trace to the same root. Splitting, blossom end rot, and poor fruit set are all, at heart, watering and consistency problems. Get the watering steady and even, and you prevent all three at once, which is why consistent watering is the most valuable single habit you can build as a tomato grower. It is genuinely the master key to healthy fruit.

That is oddly encouraging, because it means you are not fighting three separate battles but one. Steady watering, good soil that holds moisture, mulch, and shelter from extremes solve the lot. It ties into the broader picture of common growing problems and why vegetables fail, nearly all of which come back to conditions rather than bad luck.

Why Tomatoes Are Worth the Trouble

Splitting, like most tomato troubles, is really the plant asking for more consistent care, and once you provide it the problem fades. Tomatoes are more demanding than the easy beginner crops, but they teach you to water well and read your plants, and those skills pay off across everything else you grow. A split tomato is simply feedback: the watering has been uneven, steady it up, and the next flush comes through clean.

So do not be disheartened if a batch cracks after summer rain, because it happens to every tomato grower, myself included, most years. Pick them, use them, adjust the watering, and carry on. If you want the fuller picture of growing strong, healthy plants from the start, when to plant tomatoes and feeding them properly both help you get ahead of problems like this before they begin.

Why Are My Tomatoes Splitting: Frequently Asked Questions

A Sensible Place to Start

If your tomatoes are splitting, the fix is almost always the same: steady the watering. Water regularly and evenly so the soil stays consistently moist rather than swinging between bone dry and soaked, which for pots and grow bags usually means watering daily, or twice a day in hot weather. Mulch around the base to hold moisture, and shelter outdoor plants from sudden heavy rain where you can.

Meanwhile, pick any split fruit promptly and use it, since it is perfectly good caught early. Get the watering steady and most of the splitting stops, and you will have solved blossom end rot and poor fruit set into the bargain, since all three come back to the same thing. Consistent watering really is the master key to healthy tomatoes.

Tomato plants are not producing fruit for one of a handful of reasons in UK gardens, and the good news is that nearly all of them are fixable: temperatures too high or too low for the flowers to set, poor pollination, too much nitrogen pushing leaves instead of fruit, erratic watering, or not enough sun. If your plants are green, leafy and healthy but stubbornly refuse to fruit, the plant is almost always telling you that its growing conditions are just off, not that anything is seriously wrong. Work through the likely causes below, match the one that fits your plants, and you can usually turn it around within a few weeks. Tomatoes are fussy, but they are also forgiving once you give them what they want.

I have grown tomatoes for over twenty years on my Oxfordshire plot, in the greenhouse and outdoors, and I have had every version of this problem: lush plants with no fruit, flowers that drop without setting, trusses that just sit there. Every single time, it came down to one of the causes below, and once I learned to read which one, fixing it became straightforward. Let me walk you through how to work out what is going on with yours.

First, Is It Flowering or Not?

The very first thing to check is whether your plant is producing flowers at all, because it splits the problem cleanly in two. If there are no flowers yet, the plant is simply not ready, and the cause is usually about growth and timing rather than fruiting. If there are plenty of flowers but they are not turning into fruit, that is a pollination or setting problem, which is the more common complaint by far. Most people arrive here with healthy, flowering plants that just will not set, so that is what most of this guide addresses.

Once you know which situation you are in, you can zero in on the likely cause. Below are the five reasons tomatoes fail to fruit, roughly in order of how often I see them. Read through and find the one that matches what your plants are actually doing.

Cause 1: The Temperature Is Wrong

This is the single most common reason, especially in a British summer. Tomato flowers only set fruit within a fairly narrow temperature band, roughly 15 to 27 degrees Celsius. The RHS guide to growing tomatoes is a good reference for the detail. When nights are too cold, which happens a lot early in our season, the flowers simply will not set and often drop instead. And in a hot spell, particularly in a closed greenhouse where it can soar past 30 degrees, the pollen becomes sterile and again nothing sets. So both a cold June and a baking July can give you the same result: flowers but no fruit.

The fix depends on the direction. If it is cold, be patient, because things usually improve as summer settles in, and avoid planting out too early in the first place. If it is a heatwave and you are under glass, ventilate hard, open every door and vent, and damp down the floor to cool the air. Understanding your local last frost dates helps you avoid the cold-start version of this problem.

Cause 2: Poor Pollination

Tomato flowers are self-fertile, but they still need movement, wind or an insect, to shake the pollen loose and set fruit. Outdoors this usually happens on its own, but in a still, closed greenhouse or a sheltered corner, the flowers may never get the nudge they need. This is why greenhouse tomatoes so often flower beautifully and set nothing, while the same variety outdoors crops fine. The still air is the culprit.

The fix is easy and slightly comical: help the pollen along yourself. On a warm, dry day, gently tap or shake the flower trusses, or the plant’s main stem, to mimic the wind. A soft artist’s brush dabbed flower to flower works too. Doing this every day or two while the plant is in flower makes a real difference under glass. Growing bee-friendly plants nearby helps pull pollinators in for outdoor plants.

Cause 3: Too Much Leaf, Not Enough Fruit

If your plants are big, lush, and bursting with dark green leaves but shy on flowers and fruit, this is almost certainly your problem. It is caused by too much nitrogen, usually from over-feeding with a general fertiliser or growing in very rich soil. Nitrogen drives leafy growth, and a plant given too much simply pours its energy into foliage at the expense of fruit. It is one of the most common and most frustrating causes, because the plant looks so healthy.

The fix is to switch to a high-potash feed, the kind sold as tomato food, which encourages flowering and fruiting rather than leaves. Stop using any general or high-nitrogen feed. This is a classic case of lots of leaves but no fruit, and it ties into the wider principle of feeding sensibly rather than heavily. Ease off the nitrogen and the plant redirects its energy where you want it.

Cause 4: Erratic Watering

Tomatoes are sensitive to inconsistent watering, and swinging between bone dry and soaking wet stresses the plant enough to make it drop flowers and fail to set. This is especially common with plants in pots and grow bags, which dry out fast and then get flooded, and it is a frequent cause of trouble in a hot summer. The plant, under that kind of stress, sheds flowers to conserve itself rather than committing to fruit.

The fix is steady, consistent moisture: water regularly and deeply so the roots never swing between extremes, and mulch the surface to hold moisture and even things out. In hot weather, containers may need watering daily. There is more detail in how often to water plants. Consistent watering also prevents other tomato troubles like splitting and blossom end rot, so it is well worth getting right.

Cause 5: Not Enough Sun

Tomatoes are sun-lovers, and they need a good six hours or more of direct sunlight a day to fruit well. In a shady spot, or a dull, wet summer, they will grow leaves happily enough but struggle to produce and ripen fruit, because they simply are not getting the energy they need. This is more of a problem in northern gardens and in poor summers, and it is often combined with the temperature issue above.

There is not much you can do about the weather, but you can make sure your plants are in the sunniest, most sheltered spot you have, and against a south-facing wall if possible, which adds warmth as well as light. For next year, choosing the right position from the start is the fix. If light is genuinely limited, growing in pots lets you move plants to chase the sun through the season.

Usually It Is More Than One Thing

In my experience, a stubborn no-fruit problem is rarely down to a single cause. More often it is two or three of these overlapping, a cool summer plus a still greenhouse plus a bit too much feed, and they compound each other. That is actually reassuring, because it means you do not have to find one perfect answer. Improve two or three of the conditions at once, and plants that were sulking will usually start setting fruit within a couple of weeks.

So run through all five, fix whichever you reasonably can, and give it time. The most powerful combination is usually steady watering, a high-potash feed, good ventilation, and a daily tap of the flowers to help pollination. Do those together and you have addressed the vast majority of no-fruit cases in one go.

Greenhouse or Outdoors: Why It Differs

It is worth understanding why the same variety can behave completely differently under glass and outside, because it points straight at the fix. Greenhouse tomatoes get more warmth, which is a real advantage in our climate, but they suffer from still air that hampers pollination and from overheating in hot spells. Outdoor tomatoes get natural wind and insect pollination for free, but they are at the mercy of cold nights and dull weather. Each setting has its own version of the same handful of problems.

The practical upshot: under glass, focus on ventilation and hand-pollination. Outdoors, focus on shelter, warmth, and a sunny spot. Match your effort to your setting and you get far better results. There is a fuller guide to the whole plant in growing tomatoes and its ongoing care in caring for tomato plants.

When Flowers Keep Dropping Off

A particular version of this problem is when flowers form and then drop off entirely without setting, sometimes called dry set or flower drop. It is the same causes underneath, temperature extremes, poor pollination, or stress from erratic watering, just showing up as dropped flowers rather than stalled ones. The plant produces the flower, fails to set it, and cuts its losses by shedding it.

The fix is exactly the same as above: steady the temperature and watering, help with pollination, and ease off the nitrogen. If it is happening in a heatwave, the flower drop usually stops on its own once the weather cools. This is closely related to why vegetables flower but produce no crops more generally, which affects courgettes and beans in the same way.

How Long Until It Improves

Be patient, because tomatoes do not respond overnight. Once you have improved the conditions, it usually takes two to three weeks to see new flowers setting and tiny fruit forming, since the plant needs time to produce and set fresh trusses. The flowers that already failed will not come back, but the new ones should behave. So do not give up if nothing changes in the first few days, that is completely normal.

Do bear in mind the season, too. If it is already late in the summer, there may not be enough warmth and time left for a big crop to develop and ripen, however well you fix the conditions. In that case, focus on ripening what you can and chalk it up to experience. Getting the plant off to a strong start next year, as covered in when to plant tomatoes, prevents most of these problems from the outset.

Why Tomatoes Are Worth the Fuss

Tomatoes are more sensitive than most vegetables, and that catches people out, because a courgette or a bean will crop almost regardless while a tomato demands the right temperature, feeding, and pollination to perform. But that sensitivity is also what makes them such a good teacher. Learn to read a struggling tomato and you learn to read every plant in your garden, because the same principles, steady conditions, sensible feeding, good light, apply everywhere. It is all part of the bigger picture of common growing problems and why plants underperform.

So do not be disheartened if your tomatoes are being difficult. Every experienced grower has fought exactly this battle, usually many times. Work through the causes, make the changes, give it time, and you will get there, and you will be a better gardener for having worked it out. The common tomato problems guide covers the other issues you might meet along the way.

Tomato Plants Not Producing Fruit: Frequently Asked Questions

A Sensible Place to Start

If your tomatoes are flowering but not fruiting, start with the three fixes that solve most cases: switch to a high-potash tomato feed, water steadily and consistently, and help pollination by tapping the flowers on warm days. If you are under glass, add plenty of ventilation to that list. Those few changes address the vast majority of no-fruit problems.

Then give it two or three weeks and watch the new flowers rather than the old ones. Tomatoes reward patience, and once you get the conditions right they usually come good with a rush. Do not be disheartened if it takes a little time, every tomato grower has been exactly where you are, and working it out is how you become a better one.